Searching for Guidance in the Metro of 2000 Temples and Shrines: Author Clément Bérech Investigates Manga Title The Lone Gourmet
In the world of Japanese manga, a quiet revolution has taken place with the creation of the character Goro Inogashira, the solitary gourmet. Born as a counterpoint to the annoying trend in the 1990s of "gourmets" taking their girlfriends to restaurants, Goro is an ordinary office worker who finds great pleasure in eating alone. This character, brought to life by Masayuki Kusumi and Jiro Taniguchi, has transformed the genre and established a playful, mischievous tone in the French literary landscape.
Goro's latest adventure, "Un vrai dépaysement," sees him dreaming of travel and exoticism, much like his creator, Clément Bénech, who made a sensational debut in literature in 2013 with his first novel, "L'Été slovène." The story follows Goro as he journeys to Kyoto, Japan, where he discovers various culinary surprises. From sushi restaurants with spaced-out tables and taciturn customers, to a touristy restaurant in a secluded temple garden, a simple ramen restaurant off-center, a market featured in guides, and a place selling the oldest mochis in Japan, at Ichiwa, Goro's taste buds are treated to an authentic Japanese feast.
Kusumi, the creator of Goro, explains that a hero needs a weakness. In Goro's case, his weakness is his love for food. Kusumi takes advantage of this, initiating Goro by ordering a variety of dishes, such as smoked radish, skewered pork tongue, beef heart, and sea urchins. Goro, a "nekojita," or cat tongue who doesn't like food that's too hot, apologizes for eating slowly. Despite this, his passion for good food shines as the central theme.
The solitary gourmet character's adventures reflect a calm, slice-of-life approach to culinary exploration, portraying food as a source of comfort and personal reward. This cultural embrace of solo culinary experiences has been influenced by the manga's popularity. Fans have sought out similar dining experiences, visiting small, family-run restaurants or local eateries where they can eat authentically prepared Japanese dishes alone or quietly, replicating Goro’s solo dining style. Some restaurants have even embraced the manga's spirit by promoting menus or environments welcoming to solo diners, contributing to a broader awareness and acceptance of eating alone in Japanese society.
Even in Kyoto, where temples are traditionally off-limits to merchants, the merchants have not been driven out. In fact, one local priestess has transformed her personal quarters into a genuine bar to save her temple, the Kanga-an, in the outskirts of Kyoto. This shows that, despite Google's empire and the war of the (small) stars, there are still places off the beaten track.
The author, Clément Bénech, did not have to fight to enjoy his food, unlike Goro. However, he did have a humbling experience at a soba restaurant in Tokyo where he felt watched and had to learn a lesson in humility after using a tea pot for cooking noodles instead of drinking tea. This incident, like many in Goro's story, serves as a reminder that even in the simple act of eating, there is much to be learned.
In sum, Goro Inogashira's story is a celebration of solo dining, showing personal and culinary satisfaction in quiet moments. It has inspired a cultural embrace of solo culinary experiences in Japan, encouraging individuals to savour their meals and appreciate the flavours, just like Goro does.
This article was originally published in EnVols n°07, June/July 2023, "Special Solar."
- Despite his cautious nature when it comes to spicy food, Goro Inogashira's culinary adventures during his travels, as depicted in the manga, have inspired many individuals to explore food-and-drink options in Japan, emulating his solo dining style and appreciating the authentic taste of each dish, as part of their lifestyle.
- As Goro Inogashira delves into the diverse food scene of Kyoto, Japan, such as sushi in-flights at spaced-out restaurants, or the oldest mochis at Ichiwa, his adventures reflect not only his love for good food but also the growing trend of solo travelers seeking unique food experiences, enriching their personal journeys.
