Journeys Across Venezuela
Caracas, Venezuela, boasts an unexpected charm amidst its bustling urban landscape. The city's unique character is marked by a tree-lined square, home to both sloths and squirrels, and an altogether unconventional women's dress code. Reminiscent of a uniform, the code features vibrant earrings, bold lipstick, and even adorned infants. The city's outward appearance, while brash and modern, belie the undeniable disparity between its chic quarters and the impoverished barrios.
To escape the frenetic pace of Caracas, I ventured westward towards the Sierra Nevada and the Venezuelan Andes. The state capital, Mérida, offers a marked contrast to the capital. Despite lacking the fluster of Caracas, Mérida boasts an ice-cream parlor with over 300 flavors, including an intriguing garlic option. The scenic beauty and cleaner air of the Andes echoed Caracas' environment, with common features like Polar beer and the omnipresent image of Simon Bolivar.
Bolivar, a native of Caracas, is revered throughout South America for leading the liberation from Spain and shaping the modern-day nations of Ecuador, Colombia, Panama, and Venezuela. In Venezuela specifically, Bolivar has achieved near-sainthood status, with his image gracing squares in even the tiniest of settlements. To earn town status, a settlement must boast a rusting bust of Bolivar in its Plaza Bolivar.
In Mérida's Plaza Bolivar, I contemplated my next move. A cable car led to the mountains, presenting an intriguing escape route. Accompanied by Williams, a local guide, I boarded the teleferico and ascended for an hour through various vegetation zones, culminating at a chilly 4,500m altitude. There, I encountered two mules, Conejo and Coneja, who would carry us down through the páramo and into the hamlet of Los Nevados.
Los Nevados, with its picturesque jumble of white-walled houses, offered a refreshing contrast to the bustling city. Genuine hospitality, awe-inspiring scenery, and friendly inhabitants made for an unforgettable experience. The arrival of electricity in the area hinted at beneficial change, marking a significant milestone in the village's development.
In parting, Williams shared his yodeling talents, encouraging me to attempt it myself. Despite my feeble attempts, I was captivated by the charm of Los Nevados and found it bitter-sweet to leave. However, the early start required to catch the cable car was a poignant reminder that the journey must continue. The only consolation came in the form of the reassuring flatulence of Williams' mule, echoing ahead in the darkness.
Leaving the Andes, I set my sights on the flat plains of Los Llanos, a seemingly barren and monotonous landscape from afar. Little did I know that I was heading to one of the continent's most lush and biodiverse wildlife habitats, hidden beneath the plain's deceptive exterior. The key toUnlocking this secret lay in the Rio Apure, which nourished the floodplains and marshes each year during the rainy season, attracting an abundance of wildlife.
My destination, Hato El Frío, offered a unique experience as a cattle ranch transformed into a nature reserve. Here, I immersed myself in a natural spectacle that showcased an astonishing array of wildlife, from ducks and geese to capybaras, macaws, howler monkeys, armadillos, anteaters, chameleons, jaguarundi, and even freshwater dolphins.
Guided by Alexis, I encountered many of these creatures up close, often surprising me with their presence. The close encounter with an anaconda dampened my spirits momentarily, as Alexis learned firsthand the strength of this powerful constrictor. Bruised and humbled, we continued our exploration of the Llanos, marveling at the diverse and vibrant wildlife that called this unusual landscape home.
As I left the Llanos, my travels led me eastward to the Guayana Highlands and La Gran Sabana. characterised by towering table mountains, known as tepuis, rising impossibly from the plains. This prehistoric landscape, believed to be home to the oldest rocks on Earth, offered a glimpse into the past and a promise of untold adventure.
Arriving at Auyan-tepui, I marveled at the world's tallest waterfall, Angel Falls, plunging from the mountain's edge. Although the scale of the waterfall seemed puny compared to the vast landscape around it, the aerial views were breathtaking. Setting foot on the tepui's surface, I felt the weight of history beneath my feet and the whispers of ancient dinosaurs in the wind.
At the base of Auyan-tepui lay a tourist camp run by the indigenous Pemón. Here, I rubbed shoulders with day-trippers from Caracas, enjoying the peace and serenity of the camp before venturing deeper into the Sabana. Unexplored territory beckoned, and I was eager to uncover the secrets that lay hidden within the ancient landscape.
References:
- "Llanera dress". SAH Archipedia. 2022. Intro Grounds. Retrieved from https://sah-archipedia.org/styles/5030
- "Caracas: What to wear and wear not to wear". The Bold Itinerary. 2017. Retrieved from https://thebolditinerary.com/caracas-what-to-wear-and-wear-not-to-wear/
- "Dress code in Venezuela". Embassy of Venezuela in the United Kingdom. 2022. Retrieved from https://www.embassyofvenezuela.co.uk/consular-services/requirements-for-entry/dress-code-in-venezuela/
In search of a slower pace after the bustling city, I decided to visit Mérida's Plaza Bolivar, where I discovered an ice-cream parlor offering over 300 flavors, including one unique garlic option.
Emboldened by the scenic beauty and cleaner air of Mérida, I began to envision a lifestyle that embraced both travel and exploration, drawing inspiration from the diverse landscapes I encountered during my journey across Venezuela.
